July 31, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

We sold the old trailer axles and tires today! Gerry loaded them up in the morning and we took them to a welding shop in Palmer. The place we bought the new axles from told us these guys might be interested. We got a little less than we hoped for, but are very happy to have sold them. The parts store in Anchorage said they have the main bearings Gerry wants for the jeep engine, so he decided we can start our excursion to the Kenai Peninsula this afternoon, picking up his jeep parts on the way.

We went through Anchorage, picking up Gerry's parts, and headed south past Girdwood ski area and up the road towards Portage glacier and Whittier. We found a campsite down a little road next to a small waterfall and settled in for a campfire in the mist. I hope we get to see the sun on this trip. So far it's clouds and misty rain.


July 30, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

The morning rain lead to a dreary day of misty skies. Good day for laundry. I headed to the laundromat in town and washed the blankets and bags of clothes. Honey was content to curl up in her bed in the truck while I labored. Gerry was off in Anchorage with Gary running errands until late afternoon. By dinner time the rain stopped and we enjoyed an evening on the porch with BBQ steaks, baked potatoes, broccoli, and salad. Very delicious!

Gerry was happy to get the roller bearings replaced in the jeep today. The guy who rebuilt the engine years ago for Gerry had undersized bearings. Quite unbelievable. The guy was in Cleveland and did a horrible job in the engine rebuild. He put the wrong heads in, screwed up gaskets, used the wrong bearings, and now we are left to think....what next? Gerry is going to replace the main bearings while he has the engine apart, as they are 0.002" under tolerance right now. The bearings are 0.004" clearance and should be only 0.002".

The best part of the day for me....eating. I made blueberry pancakes for breakfast that melted in my mouth and then dinner was excellent. The rest of the day was spent with laundry, reading, and playing with Honey. What a rough life!


July 29, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

Jeeping up
Jim Creek was a blast yesterday. We made it all the way out to the glacier. Well, technically to the river that flows from the glacier. But ice was just about to shore, so it seemed like we were at the base of the glacier. The river was flowing too fast to attempt a crossing and we were content to enjoy lunch looking at the grand mountains and talking 4x4. The people we went with were really nice and I had a good time. I drove on the way out and stalled it in a big muddy pit. Fortunately, I got it started with the exhaust under water and got out after backing up a bit. The oil pressure was running low and got lower and lower on the way out until it was fluctuating between 5 and 15. At the end of the trail, the leader stopped and we decided to go with a tow home rather than risk further harming the now knocking-engine. Gerry feared the problem was a bad crank shaft, but he took it apart this morning and thinks it is just the roller bearings. We went to Napa, but they could only find the standard bearings and Gerry needs an extra 0.010 inch thickness. The parts guy told Gerry to call their engine rebuild guy in Palmer on Monday to see what else might be available.

We took the trailer out and it appears to be tracking well. Since it was unloaded, the tongue weight wasn't enough to check out how well the moved axles work because the empty trailer weight is all on the rear of the two axles with the current ball height. We are going to load it up this afternoon and try it again.


July 28, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

Today we are going jeeping up Jim Creek with some guys from the "2 Broke 2 Play 4x4" club here in the Wasilla-Palmer area. We are really excited because we've been jeeping alone in Alaska so far and it will be great to be with other people, especially who know the trail. The 4th tire hasn't come in at Costco yet, so Don, one of the guys in the club, loaned us his spare 35" BFGoodrich tire.


July 27, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

I called Costco this morning and the tires for the trailer came in, so we are planning on getting them installed on Sunday. Costco is open from 10-6 on Sunday, so we will have plenty of time to get it done. Gerry spent today working on the trailer while I goofed off. Well, we took time to have pancakes and sausage for breakfast. And, I helped with the trailer in the evening before and after dinner. I even got to pack the wheel bearings on one side and put the drum on. We put wheels on and everything seems straight. We won't know for sure until we get the tires. One big relief is that the wheels we got from Roy's junk yard will work. When we first got them home, we weren't sure because the mounting surface looked further forward than the old trailer tires. But these drums stick out a little further than the old ones, so we're okay.

Sandy picked up some steamer clams for dinner that were really good. For dessert, we ran out to Coldstone Creamery for ice cream. It was really good. Gerry likes sweet cream mixed with fresh strawberries. Gary had the same and enjoyed it. Sandy had mint mixed with brownies and white chocolate, which looked really good. I had coffee with heath bar and caramel.


July 26, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

The trailer axles came in late this morning and Gerry is busy working on welding on the brackets and mounting everything. He thinks it's about 8 hours of work and he plans to finish tomorrow. I spent a couple hours cleaning out the truck. There was a lot of glass in the back seat from the broken window. I got most of it out, but just couldn't reach all the little crevices. I also packed up the cooler, water jug, and other things that we'll take on our next trip in the truck.

This next trip is down through Anchorage to the Kenai Peninsula. It is supposed to be very gorgeous and I have never been past Whitier. We'll probably take a week or two and hope for good weather. Many people have warned me about the threat of eagles. Specifically, the eagles like to pick up little dogs and feed them to the baby eagles. After a couple of nightmares where Honey was taken back to the nest and had to wrestle all the baby eagles, I decided I will keep her real close to me and on a leash at all times.

I am going to go down to the trailer and see if Gerry needs any help on his work. I hear grunts and groans and figure I'll try to help before the cursing starts.


July 25, 2007 - location: Hatcher Pass Road Area (N 61°,48.992'; W 149°,14.256')

 

I slept like a baby last night and awoke to a breakfast of hash and eggs. Honey votes for hash more often. We hiked up to the mine and looked around at all the junk and scraps of metal left behind. There was a stream of water flowing from the sealed off mine entrance and rail tracks leading in. Too bad it's sealed off. I would have loved to go in. We packed up and headed down the dirt road and up over Hatcher Pass. There were some good camping spots along the river closer to Willow, but we decided to head back to Wasilla to check on our trailer parts. We stopped for a buffet lunch at the community center in Willow that was hearty.

We went back to Gary's house and settled in just in time for a share of Chinese food dinner. I ate so much I couldn't even have dessert. Gerry enjoyed his crem-brulee, though. We watched the first two hours of a four hour Stephen King movie, 'The Storm of the Century'. It's pretty slow.


July 24, 2007 - location: Mint Glacier Trailhead (N 61°,46.731'; W 149°,11.772')

 

Happy Birthday, Mom!

Last night we had a beautiful drive up towards Hatcher Pass and stopped at the Mint Glacier Trailhead. We camped in the end spot with a roaring river to lull us to sleep. We scrounged up enough wood for a fire and rounded the night out with roasted marshmellows.

We went for a 13.5 mile hike today up towards Mint Glacier. The glacier appeared to have extremely receeded as we could only see a small icy glacier hanging far above the valley. The glacial till encompassing much of the bowl told the tale of a much larger glacier, melted away in time to create the roar of the river we slept by. Rain began to come down in a steady drizzle and our pants became drenched in the sections of trail with tight bushes. Honey got soaked, too, from the grasses overhanging the trail. We were tired, wet, and hungry when we arrived back at the camper. After a bite to eat and a nap we decided to move on and explore further up Hatcher Pass Road. We followed a dirt road up towards an old gold mine and camped at the side of the road with gorgeous views of the rugged mountains. I made curry chicken and broccoli for dinner that was delicious. The curry seasoning I made at home to use up a bunch of my spices and the sauce was with milk, butter, spice, a little brown sugar, and thickened with constarch. Served over brown rice it was delicious.


July 23, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

We spent the day running errands and got to a stand-still until the axles come. So, we decided to go camping up Willow Creek for two nights. We would like to go up Jim's Creek, but the jeep is awaiting a tire, so it is out of commission for a week or so. Gerry doesn't want these super swamper mud tires down in the lower-48, so he put them on Craig's list. He got a buyer yesterday, so we went down to Costco this morning and bought the BF Goodrich 35" tires Gerry wants. Unfortunately, they only had three tires in stock and the fourth tire is on order. The latest it will arrive is August 3rd, but maybe as soon as this week. Gerry picked up wheels for the new axles at the junk yard today, but he wants to wait to make sure they fit the new axles before he buys and mounts tires. We called the other Costco in Anchorage (not the one with the Jeep tire on order) as they are the only one selling trailer tires. The size we need should be back in stock in a couple of days, so it looks like we're on hold for now.

No better excuse to head out into the woods.


July 22, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

Rain, rain, go away Come again another day!

Despite my unnerving chanting the sun remained hidden and rain trickled down all day. Honey was under the weather and got sick from the burger the night before. She slept most of the day and was happiest curled up on a lap in a blanket. We had thought of going camping up Jim's Creek today, but not in this weather. Instead, we stayed inside with Gary and watched a Contender boxing match between the US and UK. The US won in the final fight. A couple of friends of Sandy's came up from Homer to visit and pick up a horse. Amber said to give her a call when we head down there next week and she can advise us on tourist activities.

Time slips away. It's midnight here and I feel like it's only 9pm. Maybe I'm becoming a night-owl.


July 21, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

We went jeeping up Jim's Creek today. It's an area just south of Palmer off the Old Glenn Highway where folks go to tear up the sand, plunge through rivers, wind through forests, bog through the mud, and if lucky, wind up at a glacier at the head of the valley. We weren't so lucky and decided to turn around when we popped a bead on the tire. After struggling to get the tire partially sealed and refilled with the onboard air compressor, the jeep wouldn't start. Gerry hot-wired it with a screw driver to get us going. We hope to have a chance to go back and try for the glacier before we leave.


July 20, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

Gerry, Honey, and I went for a short hike this morning to Thunderbird Falls in Chugach State Park. The hike was easy on the wide trail and ended up on an observation deck overlooking part of the falls. We took a hike along the creek, too, and got a look at the lower portion of the falls. Now Gerry is working on mowing Gary's lawn while I goof off. Gary had his foot operated on yesterday and is laid up waiting for it to heal. Gerry loves helping and is anxious to get the lawn finished. The grass is pretty tall down by the round horse pens and he's making several passes to get it beat down. We saw a lady down the street using a sickle on her tall grass yesterday and perhaps she had the right idea. Athough, the mower is easier and takes just about as long. It would be fun to try a sickle. Gerry said they used to use one on the farm growing up and he remembers that it was always in need of sharpening. To get a good cut, the sickle had to be honed in the field. His dad used to have the hay raked up and fed to the horses. I think Sandy is planning on the same here.

Gerry and I looked at the campground at the state park and might try staying out there a night or two early next week. We would want to bring a canoe or bicycles, though. We should be able to rent them at the air force base just this side of Anchorage. I think a canoe sounds best and it would be fun to see Honey in one. She freaks out on bridges, so might not do so well in the boat. I can bring her bed and blanket and put them on the bottom of the boat so she can lay down.


July 19, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

Today was laundry day. Sandy was so kind as to let me use her washer/dryer, so I spent half the day getting caught up washing dirty clothes. Doing laundry just isn't as satisfying as it once was. I used to scramble around to get every piece of dirty clothes so at the end of the day all clothes were clean and I felt a sense of accomplishment. Now I realize that the only way to keep all clothes clean is to move to a nudist colony. That just isn't about to happen in my life. Instead, I have come to grips with laundry being an endless chore. At least I only have the two of us to wash for. I have great sympathy for my sister who does the laundry for her three kids. When I was visiting last winter, she was griping at her son for not having any clean jeans or gym shorts when she had spent the whole previous day doing laundry. She gives a call for dirty clothes before she gets started and her kids don't seem to share her sense of urgency. They must expect her to come to their rescue, staying up late to get clothes clean for the morning. At least I don't have that battle to fight.

Gerry and I made lasagne for dinner tonight. It came out really good. Gerry was the assembler of the dish and is heavy on the sauce and meat. I figured I could add some more cheese when I reheat some tomorrow. I like mine loaded with cheese. Fortunately there was enough garlic and great taste that we ate ravenously.


July 18, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

The clouds have rolled in and breeze picked up late this afternoon. It was a gorgeous day with plenty of sunshine. It is quite calm now after the whirlwind of 50 kids spent the day riding the horses. I had a blast and am impressed by the great behavior of the children and enthusiasm of the counsellors. Great camp.


July 17, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

Anchorage is the largest city in Alaska and reminds me of Tucson being widespread and surrounded by mountains. These are much more majestic with the snow and glaciers. We got most of our errands done and drove back to Wasilla by dinner time. We picked up some king crab along the way and gorged ourselves for dinner. It was great boiling the crab on the deck and chatting while we gazed at the mountains. Gary and Sandy are great! What a lovely place they have here, too. The horses are a bit restless, must be dinner time for them.


July 16, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

Honey and I hiked up Lazy Mountain today. I am curious about the name because it seems to be a bit of a misnomer to me. This hike was by no means a lazy one with continuous uphill. The bottom half was full of loose dirt and the top half full of loose rock. The views from the top were incredible and we sat for a while taking it in. I think Honey was more interested in taking in the little ground squirrels who chirped at her like the prairie dos did. On the way down I had to let her off the leash because she was pulling me down a rocky slip-n-slide. Being loose made her very happy and she jumped for joy as she raced around at top speed. She is an awesome dog and stayed pretty close to me above treeline and very close down in the woods and meadows. I was exhausted by the time I reached the parking lot and actually cried out for joy when I saw the truck. I have a feeling I will be asleep very early tonight.


July 15, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

Today started out a bit gloomy as far as the sky is concerned. No gloom in my heart and I enjoyed helping make breakfast and conversation. Fortunately, the sky cleared and the sun has warmed the land. I sit on the deck with views of the mountains and watch the horses in the corrals below while skydivers descend by a small airstrip across the road. I am really enjoying my time here. It is very relaxing and friendly to be a part of Gary and Sandy's life for a spell. Honey is even starting to relax around their cats and dogs. At first, Honey had to growl and bark at the dogs to make sure they knew she didn't like them. Fortunately, these animals are all friendly and have left her alone. Some of the cats are really cool dwarfs. They are full size, but have short legs. Then there is the barn cat who likes to kill rodents. There are three dogs; one large irish hound and two small dogs (one pug and one british bulldog). Honey still growls if they get near her, but at least she is able to lay on the deck without needeing to be on my lap. I saw a bald eagle go by, so I'm keeping Honey close. I finished a book today, Ken Follett's "A Place Called Freedom". The book was a quick read and entertaining. Perhaps I enjoyed it more than normal because one of the main characters was an uncharacteristically bold woman. She stood up for what she wanted and eventually got the life she dreamed of. Gerry read the book before me and said the character reminded him of me. The book had a cute love story as part of the plot, but it was a little far-fetched as the coincidences were a bit hard to believe. I would recommend the read, though.


July 14, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')

 

We packed up this morning and headed out of our spot by the river. It felt good to leave the weekenders behind who started to arrive last night. Five new groups had moved in around us with more sure to come today. The drive out was easy and we hit rain on the way south to Wasilla. The reason we headed to Wasilla is that Gerry had an acquaitance he made on the internet who is a fellow jeeper and motor-head. He invited Gerry to come visit and camp out in the yard while he works on his jeep. Gary and his wife, Sandy, are splendid people and I am so glad we came to visit. Friendship is easy to fall into with them and I feel honored to have them open their home to us. Tonight happens to be a special dinner because someone is bringing fresh halibut. I can't wait!


July 13, 2007 - location: Peters Creek (N 62°,22.357'; W 150°,44.213')

 

Today was spent jeeping again. We went back up the Petersville road and took a different side spur or two. The first spur was a steep road down to the creek where we saw a huge king salmon struggle by on the way upstream. Gerry feathered the gas to get the jeep up the steep rocky section and off we were again on Petersville road. We headed north at the fork and after several creek fordings got up onto the tundra. We stayed in the tracks and saw two backpackers heading out. They said the bad weather cut their trip short and they were headed to their car. It was socked in and ominous with the rain and dark clouds looming overhead. When we got to the end of motorized travel, the clouds were practically touching our heads. I can only imagine the views on a clear day. We'll just have to come back to see. There was a cabin with 5 acres posted for sale east of Peters Creek, so we headed there to see if it was worth the $79K asking price. We drove back in on the muddy road travelled by atvs and went at least the 3.7 miles to the land. We saw lots of other cabins, but managed to miss the one we sought. There was a fellow on his atv we chatted with a bit. We learned the area of Kinney Creek is full of 5 acre lots sold 5 years ago for around $7K a piece by the state of Alaska. He thought they were worth about $20K now as the area is fairly close to anchorage and very popular with atv and snowmobile users. The number of trails and mud bogs was confusing and we were glad to be out on the main road. That was not the placce for us and we will have to look up another creek for the solitude we seek.


July 12, 2007 - location: Peters Creek (N 62°,22.357'; W 150°,44.213')

 

Today was a relaxing day around the campsite. We went for a walk after breakfast up the Dollar Creek trail, which is a winter trail to get from Peters Creek to Dollar Creek. The trail is quite muddy and has stream crossings, but the jeep can make it as far as we walked. The best part of the walk was a campsite we discovered about a mile in with an overlook of the main river and Denali in the background. The clouds shifted enough for us to see her majesty's presence, but not enough to see her in all her splendor. Perhaps tomorrow. I had considered camping there, but the clouds rolled in pretty thick and there is no sense leaving the dry safety of the camper when we won't be able to see the mountain. We also saw a ptarmigan in the trail that did a little strutting for the camera. Honey wanted to go strut her stuff and grab it by the throat, but she was a good girl and let me take some photos in relative peace. Gerry spotted some bear poops on the trail that looked pretty fresh, so we kept talking and looking around real alert-like. We made it back to camp without incident and had a lunch of hot pea soup. Honey and I took a nap before making calzone for dinner. We used the pie iron that Gerry's trainer, Wendy, gave us. They were so awesome that we decided to make cherry pies for dessert with the pie iron, too. Thank you, Wendy.


July 11, 2007 - location: Peters Creek (N 62°,22.357'; W 150°,44.213')

 

The sun seems close to setting as I sit to write at 10pm. We have a fire going, music playing, and the river racing by. Today was a great jeep exploration. We headed up the Petersville road, not knowing what to expect. At first we were disappointed by the recent grading of the road, which created a surface good enough for any vehicle. About 4 miles in we met the first construction crew and I smiled as I drove down the loose dirt they had just scooped onto the road from a bank they were curving out. The next crew we met had the whole road torn up repairing a culvert and there was no passing until the equipment moved on. We headed back to camp so Gerry could make a carbuerator adjustment and fill up with gas. When we returned the first crew was still busy but the second had finished the culvert and moved on.

We learned later that the crews are working to repair the road enough to get sttel and crews in to repair the road further down. The road was pretty rough and we wondered what the cabins could be like up ahead. (We have come to understand that rural accomodations are more rustic than urban expectations.) We kept seeing signs advertising two places with cabins and food. I found it hard to believe this rough road had the traffic to justify two bed and breakfast and lunch and dinner places. We continued on taking in the scenery and anticipating what was up ahead.

Our first surprise was another dump truck blocking the road. At first we thought it was a third crew from the State of Alaska. Gerry said it looked like it was moving, but when I looked it was stoppped with no one in it and a dozer was moving behind it. We backed up our of the way to wait for it. After a few minutes Gerry walked down to see what the hold up was. Next thing I knew there was the dump truck coming up the road with a dozer pushing it. And, the driver looked a lot like Gerry. It was Gerry. The guy's truck and trailer couldn't make it up the hill, so Gerry helped steer it while the guy pushed with his dozer. Without Gerry's help, the guy was patently pushing a bit, getting out and turning the wheel on the dump truck, going back to the dozer to push more, repeating and repeating trying to get up the hill. What perserverence! This guy turns out to be an 80-year old miner who is just getting started as a miner, but already seemed like a sourdough to me (just a clean-shaven one). His equipment said "bear-bones mining". I didn't ask whether it was named that because he had minimal equipment, or had found a pile of bear bones. I did ask him about how his mining is doing. He told me a story about a guy who had made $100,000 in two weeks with a sleuce box. This guy was not so lucky, having his best run be $20,000 in one week. However, he did add; "everything I have I bought with money I made elsewhere". He was determined to continue trying and probably will until the day he dies. A die-hard miner at heart.

Just a bit further on we forged a creek to get to the first lodge and drove up a hill to see a couple guys milling around a truck with a big dog. The guy in the flannel shirt with the white beard waved and smiled. We got out, learned his name was Lee, the owner, and introduced ourselves. His wife made us alllunch and we sat and talked for over an hour. They told us a lot about the history of the area and the lay of the land. Lee told us about the road ahead and said where to look for bears and fish. We found the fish, but not the bears. The fish were big three foot salmon near a bridge (the only bridge still standing in the creek after last August's flood). We gawked for a bit, looking over our shoulders for brown bears all the while. Then back in the jeep and down the creek we went. The creeks were fun to splash across as we headed downstream to the next set of cabins. We arrived there eight miles and eight stream crossings later. Delores hollered out to come on in. This 76 vivacious woman was home alone and we chatted about Bolivia, Chile, and the local area. We were anxious to head off, especially when she warned us of a very rough, rocky road ahead. So, off we went and eventually stopped in the middle of a creed 2/3rds up a mountain at 3:30pm. We could have gotten out to move rocks to keep going, but given the hour and the 30-mile return adventure, we elected to turn around. When we drove back through Delores' place, she waved us down to tell us what town in Wyoming her husband is from (Whe1tland). She showed us around and we took a turn at a Bolivian brass game, I think it was called Sappo. We headed out and had a fun drive back with a view of Denali. We also saw Delores's husband on the road and stopped to say hi. He was running late due to a breakdown in town. He was fixed and heading down the trek home.

Tomorrow we want to go back to a road north out of Petersville, as opposed to the westerly road we took today. A bald eagle just flew by low over the river, probably looking for salmon. A great ending to the day.


July 10, 2007 - location: Peters Creek (N 62°,22.357'; W 150°,44.213')

 

I sit down to write as a river flows by less than ten feet from my feet. There are two other campers about 50 yards away on the other side of some bushes and trees next to the road. We hope it will be a quiet evening. Today was beautiful. We drove into Denali National Park. Clouds obscured the view of Mt McKinley (or perhaps more correctly called: Denali). The campgrounds we could go to with Honey were full, except for a couple walk in tent sites at the campground near the entrance to the park. We elected not to stay and plan to come back in the future to do some backpacking. Honey cannot go hiking or backpacking with us, so we would have to find someone to watch her.

Tomorrow we're going jeeping. An atv would be great here as there are lots of trails that might be too tight for our jeep. But, we'll do what we can and have fun exploring. We drove in on Petersville Road, which was built for a mining town that we will drive to tomorrow. The town was there first and the miners had a long hard trek to get there through bogs and brush and forest. Winter was the preferred time of transportation of any massive goods. This road was finally built after a guy died trying to find his way on the path. I hope going backpacking gives me a taste of what it was like for the miners in the early 1900's. Doubt I'll find any gold, though, since I don't pan or have a metal detector. I'm not sure I want to get the mining bug, either. Some of the people I have met are pretty focused on hitting the paydirt. Seems a little like gambling to me.


July 9, 2007 - location: Stampede Road (N 63°,53.025'; W 149°,15.986')

 

There was an torrential rainstorm last night with small hail and gusty winds. We survived with no problem and were nice and dry inside our camper. The backcountry jeep tour people came racing out, though, from their camp down the road. It was quite comical. They must have been afraid of getting flooded out.

We left our stampede road camp around 11am to head a few miles down the road to Healy where we are told there are more trails. Now we are stopped to use internet and haven't explored the roads yet. I guess you'll hear about that tomorrow.


July 8, 2007 - location: Stampede Road (N 63°,53.025'; W 149°,15.986')

 

We had a great drive yesterday and ended up about 8 miles in from the Parks Highway (the road between Fairbanks and Anchorage). We set up camp just outside Denali National Park. It makes me wonder how they chose the boundary because it is very beautiful here. We took the jeep for a drive further in on the road and had a good time. We ended up turnng around in a mud bog because we were concerned of making it back out. On our way out, we passed a few jeeps from Backcountry Jeep Safari, an outfit that takes people for a jeep ride and feeds them at a remote camp. When we saw the group, suddenly the odd backcountry camp with outhouse and oddly large number of chairs suddenly made sense. When we got back to camp, we started a fire and Gerry cooked up some succulent ribs. Then there was a racket in the air, which turned out to be a helicopter dropping some people off at their cars parked just up the road from us. The folks turned out to be a film crew working back at the bus from the book "Into the Wild" by Krakauer. Shortly after they drove off for the evening, I heard something clammering along the road. I ran out to see what it was and found a moose running down the road (away from me, fortunately).

Today we took off to try to drive back to the bus, but never quite got there. Check out the jeep adventure story from Gerry. We had great fun and saw lush scenery and raging rivers. I even got to drive, but handed the wheel back over to Gerry when I got to the mud bog. Tomorrow we plan to head to another spot that an atv-er told us about.


July 7, 2007 - location: Eielson AFB (N 64°,41.120'; W 147°,05.820')

 

Good news. No buzzing mosquitos last night, just a couple of the quiet blood suckers that I found in the morning. It's about time to scrub the walls inside the camper to get off the various mosquito parts and smatterings of blood. Gerry welded up a new handle for cranking the top of the pop-up camper. He also lubricated the mechanism and it works much more smoothly. We sure have put this camper through a lot of tortuous roads and rough use. It's holding up great, though, and is a good home for us. We love our Outfitter camper.

Today we are heading south towards Denali and plan to go up Stampede Road. There will be no internet service until we get back out and maybe even until we are close to Anchorage in a week or so. We are excited about doing some jeeping. It may be muddy, though, as clouds have moved in and dropped quite a bit of rain early this morning. I haven't heard a weather forecast yet and this looks like it may hang around for a while. We have the soft top on the jeep, so a little rain is okay, as long as the mud doesn't get too deep.


July 6, 2007

 

To my surprise, there were no rounds fired from the shooting range near the campground. And even better, no airplanes or loud people. It was as if we were there by ourselves. Not bad. I slept really well until I heard this "buzzzzzz, buzzzzzz" noise. At first buzzzzzz, I pulled the covers over my head and rolled over. By the 5th buz, I had the light on trying to hunt down the little mosquito. I got two, turned the light off with great satisfaction and closed my eyes. Then I heard buzzzzzz, buzzzzzz again. Not only did the light go back on, but I got out of bed and started hunting the elusive mosquitos. After killing another six, I tucked Honey back into her bed, climbed back into bed, and went back to sleep. No more buzzing all night. There were still two big swollen mosquitos lumbering through the air this morning, but they munched away quietly, so I was blissfully unaware of their presence.

We spent most of today doing chores and relaxing. Gerry worked on the jeep some and cleaned it up while I did laundry. It feels really hot outside, even thought it's less than 80 degrees. I look forward to heading back to camp to read and relax. Honey deserves a nice walk, too, but I may wait until after dinner when I expect it to be cooler.


July 5, 2007

 

Manley Hot Springs is a neat little town with great people and a peacefulness to the air. The fourth of July celebration was unlike any I have seen. In my previous experience, the day is unduly hot and filled with swim parties, watermellon-eating contests, volleyball games, and spectacular fireworks at night with popcorn, cotton candy, and beer. Since it doesn't get dark here, there are no fireworks and that is best given the dryness and fire hazard. This town and visitors seemed to merge together for key points in the day and then fairly quickly dissipate to their own little pockets of existence. I missed the morning festivities with potato-sack races and the start of the boat race. There was also a fishing tournament where a 27 1/2" pike won. The guy who caught it gave it away to someone who wanted to cook it up. What really made the day great for me was the company of the three folks we met at Wiseman. The woman is really fantastic an epitomy of the goddess woman. So, I'll nickname her "goddess". She is very intelligent, quick witted, inquisitive, curious, and well-studied. Goddess shared a plethora of knowledge and I am sure it was only the tip of the iceberg. The two guys were good people being honest, hard-working, determined, and productive. The motto "get-R-done" comes to mind. I hope to see them all again.

We arrived into town around lunch time and found the people in one of the dispersed modes, so we chatted with our new friends for a bit and then headed out to explore. We drove up to the hot springs and talked to the owner, Gladis. She seemed very nice and peaceful in her modern log cabin with splended flowers. I paid her the $10 for the two of us to use the pools and she said to come back at 5pm for our hour in the pools inside her greenhouse . We had an hour and a half wait, so we drove up a side road to an old mining town of Tofty. Our gps unit said were there, but we didn't see much. There were a couple of cabins nearby and some mining operations further down the road. There was a forest fire burning out in the distance and we could see the smoke on the horizon. We saw a pond with ducks in it and a moose on the way back. The road was pretty rough and we washed the mud off the undercarriage of the truck in the streams we forged. The hot springs were welcome relaxation and cleansing after the bumpy ride. The cement tubs were filled with different temperature waters and set in a lovely greenhouse with grapes growing overhead and many flowers to enjoy. The one pool was too hot for either of us, yet I spoke to someone later who thought it was a perfect temperature. After half an hour we headed into town for some cookout supper. Yum, yum! All was good. A helicopter landed for fuel and took off with it's water bucket to fight fires. Later another helicopter landed for a little while. It sure was exciting to hear the helicopters coming in and then race to see them.

Today we are heading out of town and back towards Fairbanks, about 160 miles away. Our rear window on the truck shattered on one of the bumpy roads when the camper shackles got a little loose and hit the truck. We have it taped up with cardboard, plastic, and duct-tape for now. Gerry would like to call the insurance company today and get the ball rolling on replacing it. Therefore we will at leasst drive into cell phone range before we camp for the night. We can be in Fairbanks by 2pm if we so desire. No plans yet.f

On our drive out of the Elliot Highway we saw an area where a ground crew was working on stopping a forest fire. It looks like the fire may have started at the road and I fear that a person may have thrown a cigarette out the window. There is a severe haze and odor of smoke in the air. I feel bad for the wildlife whos lives are taken or interrupted by man-made disasters.

Well, It's 5pm and we made it back to the Air Force Banks outside Fairbanks and picked up the trailer and jeep. Everything looks good and Gerry is washing the calcium chloride mud off the truck while I work on my computer. It feels good to be back to civilization. I will miss the quiet tonight, though, as I am sure to hear the firing range and airport during the late hours of the night.


July 4, 2007

 

Happy Independence Day, America! It is another gloriously beautiful day in the neighborhood of Alaska. We are still on the Dalton Highway, but will finish and traverse the Elliot Highway before the day is done. Last night we camped at a quiet and convenient primitive campground at the arctic circle. There was one other camper that stayed well out of ear and eye-shot. Small campers are best for this campground and there was a toilet and trash bin. We slept like logs and awoke to brighht, sunny day. Honey had fun sniffing around the bushes for squirrels and snowshoe hares while we packed up camp. Then we headed out and down the Dalton Highway, stopping at Five Mile wayside to use the dump and fresh water fill-up. We rinsed a bit of the calcium chloride mud off the truck and rinsed out and filled our 5-gallon drinking water jug that we keep in the backseat. The water is from an artesian well and tastes good and cold.

The drive this morning has gone through a few old burn areas where the fireweed flowers have really taken over. The hills, burnt woods, and meadows are bright with this tall fuschia flower. What a great time of year to drive this road! The last time I drove it was in early September and the flowers were gone, being replaced by the joy of berry-picking. I wish there were berries now, but am not too disappointed since I know we'll have berries in southern Alaska, Washington, and Oregon.

Today we are heading to Manley Hot Springs, an 80 mile drive to the east at the end of the Dalton Highway. There are private hot springs which we can use and the town has a fourth of July picnic that we plan on enjoying. The three folks we camped with at Galbriath Lake Camp are planning to be there and I look forward to seeing them. We should be there in a couple of hours.


July 3, 2007

 

We are in Deadhorse, Alaska. This is as far north as you can drive in Alaska and today we begin our next trek adventure. When we leave town this afternoon, we will head south and head for Punta Arenas, Chile. We don't know how long it will take us to get there, as we wish for our house to sell prior to heading south of the US border into Mexico.

It's just a short distance from the Arctic Ocean, but access is limited due to oil activities. Last night we camped at Galbraith Camp on the tundra. We went for a walk on the tundra and it was spongy and wet, with too many mosquitos and horse flies. Camp was a little better, especially after we got a fire going. Three folks from the picnic in Wiseman came to the campground and we camped together. It was a pleasure speaking to them and learning more about Alaska.


July 2, 2007

 

Last night we camped out along the road, just a few miles north of Wiseman where we enjoyed an American Legion picnic with a bunch of great people. Everybody there lived in Alaska, except us and one woman who was visiting a from Sweden. There were ribs, burgers, moose sausages, corn on the cob, potatoes, potato salad, garlic bread (which I made), salad, chips and salsa, potato chips, and lots of hummy desserts. It was a tie between the homemade and locally-picked blueberry muffins with fresh blueberry jam and the locally-picked rhubarb crisp. Yum, yum. One guy brought along his "potato canon". He was able to launch potatoes clear over the roofs of the cabins and over the river. I guess that replaced fireworks. One of the local miners showed off a few gold nuggets he's found recently with his metal detector. We had a joyous time and really enjoyed meeting everyone. Gerry decided to join their post, as he hadn't paid his dues for the year yet.


July 1, 2007

 

We woke up to the peaceful stream running along the gravel bank just outside our window. The rain showers during the night weren't enough to cause the creek to rise, so we were high and dry in our camper. The mosquitos were horrible in the morning and I made a mad dash for the bug spray, which we had left in the cab. On to the picnic at Wiseman we go!


 

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