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August 31, 2007 - location: Aulk Bay State Park (N °58,23.047'; W 134°,41.136')
Well, we made it back on the ferry from Juneau with no problems. We actually got on the ferry we originally wanted and had a quick 2.5 hour ride to Haines. The fast ferry costs the same as the slow ferry, but is much newer and convenient. The only catch is it doesn't hold many people, so it's usually full during the summer. After getting to Haines we drove up the river to where we saw bears before and low and behold....another bear. He was sitting in the stream eating a salmon. Neat! Sorry, I'm not posting pictures right now as I'm off doing laundry without my camera to download.
We're back in Haines Junction now and the trailer was just fine parked here for the past week. Gerry took the jeep out because he needed to re-arrange the stuff on the shelf in the trailer. The harsh roads to get here did some re-arranging he didn't like. This also gave Gerry a chance to put some Lucas oil additive in, trying to help the oil pressure which is still low. It seemed to work, but time will tell. He also changed the starter, but is concerned about the fly-wheel needing to be replaced. Back to my laundry.
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August 30, 2007 - location: Mendenhall Glacier Lake USFS Campground (N 58°,24.831'; W 134°,35.064')
We had a delightful day driving around Juneau. We went to a mining museum and hike up Perserverence Creek. Then we had a pizza lunch and a fun time at the Alaskan brewery. Their smoked porter was delicious and they were ready to let us stay all evening drinking it. What hospitality. The tour guide was a riot and I highly recommend this to all beer-drinkers. We left and headed to camp.
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August 29, 2007 - location: Aulk Bay State Park (N °58,23.047'; W 134°,41.136')
We slept great last night with a light rain on the camper roof drowning out all noise. Not that there was much to drown out. We remained the only campers at the campground throughout the night and it's not a surprise they close these campgrounds in another few weeks. I am sitting in downtown Juneau while Gerry is in the visitor center getting information on tours of the capital. We would like to see the capital building and any other buildings that are unique here. Then we plan to go across to Douglas Island and hopefully camp out there. There is a ski resort out there (open only in winter) and we want to check it out.
I posted a picture of an eagle eating a salmon and some bears from Haines. There is a bear jumping on rocks, a bear eating grass, and a bear sitting on a hill.
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August 28, 2007 - location: Mendenhall Glacier Lake USFS Campground (N 58°,24.831'; W 134°,35.064')
We arrived in Juneau at about 2pm yesterday. The ferry ride here went well and the dogs did great inside the camper. the slow ferry was a great way to take in the surroundings. We even saw a whale wave his tail at us as we went by. After de-boarding, we drove around a bit, doing a drive-by of downtown Juneau and fleeing upon sight of the four cruise ships and throngs of people. We stopped at a very small Costco for cereal, bread, and snacks before heading to find a campground. We found the Mendenhall Glacier Lake USFS campground to be very pleasant and settled into a spot by the shore of the lake. None of the spots had stellar lake views, but ours had a trail down to a beach where the glacier beckoned us to swim on over. The glacial ice floating in the lake gave us a shiver, and we stayed on land warming by a great fire into the darkness. This is the first USFS campground I have seen with showers and they were very hot. The tent spaces were the best, which we opted for. The RV spaces were a walk from the water and cost $25-29 for electric, water, and some with sewer. They were widely spaced and mostly pull-throughs. Excellent spaces, just had to walk to the views.
In the morning, we headed out, thinking we would go the glacier visitor center and then hit the tram to get above town. When we saw the hordes of people at the visitor center, we braved it anyways and took the dogs to a couple overlooks. There were at least 10 busloads of people and we decided that on this clear sunny day, the crowds at the tram would be unbearable. A change of plans took us north out of town towards the wilderness. We had a delightful day with bears, eagles, seals, gulls, salmon, and small birds along the coast north of Juneau.
We settled into a campground where we're the only guests and are nestling up to a great fire after a walk and homemade burgers on hard rolls for dinner. The dogs like it here. There are lots of big trees and rotten stumps to dig around. Bernie is starting to explore more and there is plenty for them to reach on their 20 foot ropes. Once it gets cooler they'll come curl up in their beds. Each of them had a chair by the fire with their beds from the truck in it. They sleep in blankets at night and their beds go back in the truck before we go to bed.
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August 27, 2007 - location: Chilkat State Park (N 59°,07.500'; W 135°,22.000')
Here we are in line for the ferry again. We got over our bad experience yesterday and made the most of the day. We did the walking tour of the fort in Haines and then drove down to the state park on the peninsula south of town. It was gorgeous and the sun came out to expose the glaciated mountains. We took an hour hike last night through the woods and out to a nice rocky beach area with views of the mountains. The dogs loved the damp woods and Bernie did great jumping over the continual jumbles of tree roots securing the muddy trail. After some berry picking, we had dinner of salad and sushi. The dogs gobbled up their food as they were quite hungry from the hike. The woods here are beautiful and still have some of the old growth trees. Gerry feels at home, like he's in Maine, but with more gorgeous scenery across the water.
We awoke to sun-showers this morning and it looks to be a beautiful day for a boat ride. The ferry is starting to load and it looks like we will get on today. We are due to return in only 2 days, so we are going to change out tickets to a later return after we arrive in Juneau. I am glad the clouds lifted for our trip, so we can see the gorgeous scenery.
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August 26, 2007 - location: Chilkoot Lake State Rec Area (N 59°,20.119'; W 135°,34.086')
We drove into Haines last night and found the scenery stunning. The trees here are larger and the forests more majestic than we saw elsewhere in Alaska. We saw three bears when we drove up to Chilkoot Lake. All grizzlies. Two were in the stream with the fishermen and one was up on a bank next to the road. We also saw several eagles. We were worried we might not see any bears in Alaska. I guess we came to the right place for bears. We decided to go standby on the ferry, so got up early this morning and headed down to be at the ferry when the doors opened to get on the standby list. We were second on the standby list, but did not make it on the ferry. It wasn't for lack of room, but for miscommunication between the employees at the ferry terminal. This was quite frustrating and we were upset when we found out that there had been plenty of room for us and the people waiting behind us on the ferry and the four cars waiting in another lane made it on. The staff who had made the mistake were very upset and we are convinced it was poor procedures that caused the mistake. The manager came out and started explaining how she was sorry, but there really wasn't a problem with their procedures because this is the first time this has happened. All that did was invalidate that it happening to us is a problem. She didn't think it was a big deal. The fact is we should have gotten on the ferry. We followed the directions given to us and waited where we were told. We were assured that they would not "forget us". Well, they did and it could have happened before and could happen again. The only reason we found out we could have gotten on is we went inside and asked if anyone on the standby list made it. If we had just driven away, we would have never known. If they hadn't told us that "everyone made it", we would never have known. The guy responsible for loading the ferry was appalled, as evidenced by his dropped draw and look of disgust, when we said we were number two on the list. And there we were standing right in front of him when "everyone made it on".
We're going to try to have a good day despite the anger we feel. I am angry not for missing the ferry, but for the way we were treated when the error was realized. Since no one would listen to our suggestions to keep this from happening to someone else, we decided to write a letter to those in charge of the ferry system. We used the computers at the public library to get their contact information, type the letter, and send the emails. I hope it helps the "system". Now to enjoy the rest of our day the best we can.
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August 25, 2007 - location: Haines Junction (N 60°, 45.052'; W 137°,31.211')
We made it to Haines Junction last night. We lost an hour upon entering Canada, so we headed out for dinner at 8pm, really 7pm to us. Our campsite is surprisingly nice for a commercial place. It's the Kluane Campground, a good sam club place. The RV sites are all stacked in a row with beautiful views of the mountains and glaciers, plus full hook-up. We elected for the tent sites in the woods, which is much like one of the state parks with lots of trees, ample spacing, and even firewood at each site. Well worth the $16 camping fee. Plus, they're letting us store the trailer here for free as long as we camp again on the way back. That is real good news to us, as we don't want to take the trailer on the ferry and don't need it in Haines. Gerry will probably want the Jeep at some point, but we'll just have to do without it.
We don't have ferry tickets or reservations yet, but we are still hoping to get on one tomorrow. If not, we may have to wait a while. Hopefully there won't be any problems. Gerry is trying to call the 800 number now, but can't get through.
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August 24, 2007 - location: Wrangell St Elias Nat'l Park (N 62°, 37.034'; W 143°,41.052')
We drove 12 miles down Nabesna Road and camped at a trailhead in the Wrangell-St Elias National Park. We had a salad for dinner and then went for a walk with the dogs down the trail. There were blueberries galore and we picked plenty for a blueberry pancake breakfast. The rain started, so we stayed inside after doing dishes. The dogs played together for half an hour. They were wrestling and biting eachother and seemed to be having fun. I stopped them at 8pm because I wanted to give their bodies time to process all the water they guzzled before bed. When I took them out at 9:30pm, they both went potty and made it through the nite until Gerry took them out around 6am.
Breakfast was so good that I had to pick more blueberries before we left. Gerry did the dishes and packed up while I took Honey blueberry gathering. I am going to freeze these ones so we can have more blueberry pancakes down the road. The berries are at their peak here, so we should be able to find more as we head south. We will be in Canada today and head towards Haines tomorrow. I looked at the ferry schedule and am going to call today for prices and reservations.
It's raining steadily today, making it a good day for driving. Our tires are real good in the rain, the only disturbance is the rough road with frost heaves. The holes are all patched, but the heaves can really set the truck to bouncing along and I feel like I'm trapped inside a basketball at a Harlem Globe-Trotters exhibition. Okay, not quite that wild, but very difficult to write in. I hope I can read this later to type it into the computer. Well, back to staring out the window.
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August 23, 2007 - location: Valdez Glacier Park (N 61°,07.792'; W 146°,21.155')
We decided to stay overnight in Valdez in order to visit the veterinarian this morning. Bernie needed a rabies shot before we go to Canada and we decided to get health certificates for both dogs. They did very well at the vet this morning and went right to sleep when we got in the car. Gerry and I went to the Valdez Museum and the Old Valdez Exhibit Hall today. There was a major earthquake in 1964 that was devastating to much of western Alaska including Anchorage, Seward, Kenai, Kodiak, and Valdez. The entire town of Valdez was washed out by Tsunamis and the town was moved 4 miles to its present location. Thirty-three people lost their lives here, and more elsewhere in Alaska.
While we were driving around Valdez yesterday we saw spawning salmon
. There were hundreds of dead fish in various locations and thousands trying to get up the Solomon River. The main course of the river was blocked off and a man-made fish ladder created for them. It seemed like a small percentage made it up the ladder and hundreds were trying to get up on the wrong side and were dying. The stench and carnage reminded me of the harsh reality of nature. The gulls were happy, though, and had so many fish to choose from that they ate only the eyes. I even saw a fish still alive and caught in the mass of fish bodies trying to get upstream that had an eye plucked out. Pretty gross.
On a lighter note, we head back to Squirrel Creek today, where we left the trailer. We will probably camp there before heading on towards the border and then down to Haines. Hopefully the rain will be gone once we climb the pass on the Richardson Highway and head into the interior of Alaska.
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August 22, 2007 - location: Squirrel Creek SRA (N 61°,39.925'; W 145°,10.330')
We are in Valdez! The drive was beautiful and it was neat to come down over the pass to the clouds of Prince William Sound. I have never seen the mountains along the gorgeous area because it is always cloudy when I come. We stopped at Napa and the grocery store and now it's off to find internet and lunch. Some fresh Halibut fish and chips are in order.
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August 21, 2007 - location: the Copper River, near Chitina (N 61°,31.768'; W 144°,24.324')
We packed up our campsite on the Copper River after lunch and drove the 1.5 hours to Squirrel Creek. It was nice to have a leasurely morning with a jeep ride, walk down along the river, chats with the fishermen, and then delicious leftover salmon on our garden salads for lunch. Squirrel Creek is nice and we got the spot we wanted by the lake with seclusion and a deep back-in parking spot.
Gerry cooked dinner in our camp oven over the fire. the oven is collapsable Coleman metal to go on the stove, or in this cae the fire. Gerry made pork chops, baked potato, and brussel sprouts. It was very good with a glass of Wente chardonay. We walked around the lake and explored the river before heading back to chat by the fire. Bernie and Honey did really well today and they played a little in the tall grass. Tomorrow we head to Valdez.
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August 20, 2007 - location: the Copper River, near Chitina (N 61°,31.768'; W 144°,24.324')
Tonight we had the most delicious dinner of Copper River salmon, mashed potatoes and broccoli. The guys we met working the fish wheel brought a fresh one over from the live box on one of the fish wheels. He cleaned it and cut the head and tail off. It was about 9 lbs and I wrapped it up in foil with fresh garlic, butter, a whole dried chili pepper, and bay seasoning. Gerry had great coals on the fire and I cooked the fish about 45 minutes, turning it over several times. Honey didn't like the salmon, but devoured all scraps of broccoli and potatoes. Bernie ate every scrap of salmon he could get his baby teeth on.
We drove up to McCarthy earlier in the day. The road was a little bumpy with all the washboarding, but the jeep didn't mind. We went across the foot bridge and walked into the town of McCarthy. Since we wanted to get back for cooking dinner, we didn't go up to Kennicot. Bernie did great and ran along right with us, even over the metal grate bridges. Honey was afraid of the bridges because she doesn't like walking on metal grates. When she saw Bernie trot right past her and onto the bridge, she went, but was crouched down low and scared the whole way across. She got a treat at the end and some scratchies.
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August 19, 2007 - location: Little Nelchina River (N 61°,59.430'; W 146°,56.793')
Last night was our first with our new dog, Bernie. When we left Wasilla, we first stopped at Walmart so Gerry could get Bernie a bed for the truck. He found one just like Honey's light blue bed in navy blue. He loves it. Bernie was soon fast asleep in his bed in the truck. We had a couple more stops as we were trying to get a rabies shot before we left town. No one in Palmer could do it that day, so we decided to wait. Many people are insisting we need a health certificate to get into Washington state. The certificates are obtained from a veterinarian and are valid for 30 days, so if we do get one we want to wait until we are closer to leaving Alaska so we don't have to rush through Canada.
Our campsite was peaceful and wooded next to the Little Nelchina River at a state recreation area. There was no sign off the highway and this no-fee area had no water and a pit toilet. It was perfect for us and I took the dogs for a few walks around the campground while Gerry worked on the trailer wiring. Bernie is just getting used to walking on a leash and did back flips a couple of times trying to get the monkey off his back. Eventually he followed along out front. Gerry finished his wiring and we stoked the campfire before the four of us headed out for a walk. We went through the campground and up a steep hill overlooking gorgeous mountains and valleys. The sun had set behind the mountain and the sky was turning pink. We walked into the woods to find blueberries galore. Honey loves blueberries and soon learned to pick her own while Gerry and I gathered some for breakfast. Honey was so cute, grabbing the blueberries with her tongue and gulping them down. Bernie kept watching her and trying to imitate her, but he didn't get the blueberry thing and just bit at the leaves. We kept a sharp eye out for bears and fortunately didn't see any. We hiked back to camp as it was getting dark and sat by the fire, Gerry and I each with a dog on our laps. The night went well and the dogs slept most of the night. Gerry took them out at 1am and they both went potty before heading back to their beds. Neither made a peep the rest of the night.
The blueberries were delicious on our cereal and we hit the road after a walk around the campground.
We drove about 150 miles today to Chitina and are camped a mile outside of town towards McCarthy. We took the jeep out for a ride and went back to town for gas and drove around a bit. There's another camping area across the road with picnic tables, but we like the seclusion of our spot. We talked to a couple of guys running one of the fishwheels on the stream. They were repairing it after getting hit by a big log last night. Gerry offered to cut some wood for them if they brought it by camp as they don't have a saw with them. In two nights they've gotten 90 fish, but they usually get 150 a night, so they seemed disappointed. It must be fun to come out here and get fish for the freezer, smoking, and canning. If I lived up here I would do it and this spot is free to get a subsistence permit for a fishwheel. That means the cost is transportation, travel, and building and maintaining the wheel.
Well, it's time to get dinner started. Gerry's getting the wood I found cut to build a fire in our newly-built firepit. Then I'll cook beans and franks with brown bread and a salad for dinner. Then we're going for a wlk down by the river. Bernie is wandering around the campsite now watching Honey and Gerry. The dogs are in tiedowns so they can't wander off. Honey ran around free for a long time, but started to run further chasing squirrels. After having to go in the woods to get her I tied her up by Bernie, each on a 20' lead.
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August 18, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')
We plan to leave this afternoon to head east. The trailer is all painted and ready to go. I'm just wrapping up here with the new puppy. We'll be on the road in half an hour, so this is a short entry. Look forward to more news on Honey and Bernie.
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August 17, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')
Today was very productive. Gerry picked up the steel yesterday and started welding up the new tongue. He was finished by 3pm and ready to head out. We decided to stay another night to have mexican food and visit with Sandi & Gary. I also had an agenda to talk to Gerry about a new little puppy. Camie, the chihuahua breeder, talked me into one of the puppies and Gerry was a bit skeptical. By the end of the evening he agreed to the puppy on one condidion: that it is his dog. Honey will be mine and Bernie
will be Gerry's. Deal.
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August 16, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')
Gerry woke up with an idea for the trailer this morning to help with the load which is heavier than the trailer was manufactured for. He has already replaced the axles to accomodate the weight, but the frame is still designed for the lighter weight. We bent the tongue when we were on a rough road in Arizona. Even though we have reduced the weight since then and aren't driving on roads like that, there is still a risk of breaking the tongue off. Gerry's new idea is to weld an additional and longer tongue on that will also eliminate the need for the 18" hitch extension (which derates the towing capacity by 30%). We stopped by a welding shop this morning and the guy can do the job for $700-$750. Or, he can sell us the steel and give a sketch of how to do it. Gerry could do it all himself, or get it cut, positioned, and tacked up. Then the shop would weld up the new tongue into the frame. We don't know yet what we'll do.
Good news. Gerry's pills came by fed-ex today. It's only a 30-day supply, though, so it looks like we'll get to have this fun again in a couple of weeks. Can't wait.
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August 15, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')
It started raining last night at dinner time and is still drizzly this morning with periods of heavier rain. The temperature is cooler, too, and I have to remind myself it is only mid-august. Back east it would be hot and muggy right now and I would be cranking the air conditioner to sleep at night.
We hope to leave to continue our journey soon. The jeep is loaded in the trailer and we have the next leg of our trip planned out. We are playing the waiting game for a package. Gerry has been trying to get prescriptions from his on-line pharmacy since we got to Alaska two months ago. The first batch of pills we had sent to general delivery at the air force base near Fairbanks. This order was placed when we first arrived and the shipment was confirmed before we headed up north to Deadhorse. When we returned, there wasn't a package waiting, so Gerry called and indeed it had been shipped via the postal service. We have heard the postal service can be extremely slow, so we took the phone number for general delivery at the base and headed south to Wasilla, assuming we would have the package forwarded to us once it arrived. The package didn't come, so Gerry had another one sent to our friend's house in Wasilla, care of the friend. Again this was sent via postal service. In the meantime, a fellow called from North Pole, Alaska (near the air force base) and said he had Gerry's pills. He volunteered to send them to Gerry here in Wasilla. We waited a week and neither package had arrived. Given the slow mail here in Alaska, we were not overly concerned (just frustrated) and headed down to the Kenai peninsula for a week, assuming one or both packages would arrive while we were gone. We arrived back in Wasilla to find that no pills had arrived. Gerry then called the on-line pharmacy again and lo-and-behold, the last package was shipped back to them. This has us baffled and we can only surmise that the "in-care-of" instructions were either not followed on the package address, or the post office ignored it. Alas, now it is Wednesday and we have a tracking number for a fed-ex package that should arrive tomorrow. We've decided that it may be easier to use a pharmacy like Walmart or Safeway, as they tend to be around the country. Normally the on-line pharmacy is easier because new pills just arrive as needed and there is no waiting in line at the store. And I have heard negative reports on Walmart pharmacy service with long lines, poor estimates on time to fulfill orders, and lots of sick people crowding around waiting. I would just as soon avoid that, so if this fed-ex package really arrives tomorrow, we'll give this on-line pharmacy another shot.
If our package does arrive tomorrow, then we'll head out through Palmer on the Glenn Highway towards Valdez. I plan to stop along the highway at a small campground the first night and then head down the Richardson Highway the following day. There is a town of McCarthy on a side-spur that we plan to go to. We'll take the whole trailer and rig down to a campground part way to McCarthy where we'll make a base camp and then go jeeping from there. Then we'll camp again on the way to Valdez and make the trip into town without the trailer. We might get some berry picking in along the way. We hope to be on our way Friday morning.
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August 14, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')
Today was a productive day working on the jeep and trailer. I also got laundry and errands done. The day had a sad note, though. The boy dog Honey was playing with yesterday got mixed up with a horse and payed with his life. He was such a magnificent specimen of a chihuahua, too. He had patches of blond and white hair, long legs, and a nicely curved forehead. He sure loved the farm here and the horses. If one saw how close her dogs get to the horses, one might be amazed this doesn't happen more often. However, the chihuahuas prance around the horses giving them berth as they trot along. This boy dog just got unlucky when a horse decided to kick in his paddock, as they do occasionally, and didn't see it coming. He was probably dead instantly from the kick to the head and I doubt he felt a thing.
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August 13, 2007 - location: Wasilla (N 61°,33.364'; W 149°,20.527')
We spent the morning working on the trailer. With putting the rack on the back of the jeep, we needed to move the jeep forward in the trailer. This meant cutting down and moving the shelf so it won't hit the windshield as well as adding new tiedowns. After we finished the shelf, I got the rest of the bolts sorted out into sized bins and Gerry worked on the rack for the jeep. Gary helped Gerry out with the rack and together they made a great addition to the jeep. Gerry is so happy and has been wanting a rack for a long time. Today is a real squelcher, probably 80 degrees in the shade. It is amazing how hot it feels in the sun.
Honey played with a bunch of chihuahuas today. Cammy, who helps with the horses during the week, had about ten of them over here and Honey had a lot of fun. She had a hard time getting them to play with her, though. Probably because of all the growling and barring of teeth she's done with them in the past. She wanted them to chase her around the yard. They did a little bit and then I got Honey's ball out so she could have something to chase. One of the boy dogs was really funny with Honey today. He is usually very stand-offish and wants to be with his owner all the time. Today he came over to Honey when she was by the camper and started playing with her and sniffing her. It didn't last very long, but Honey seemed to like him. I am very happy to see her starting to be more social with other dogs.
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August 12, 2007 - location: Otter Lake, Fort Richardson, Alaska
Last night was a little noisier with groups of people celebrating Saturday night. There was a function at the lodge nearby and the band could be heard late into the night. The music was pretty good and when we went for a late-night walk, 'Mustang Sally' was playing. We played on the swings in the park near the lodge and listened for a while before heading back to our campfire.
We left the base today and headed back to Wasilla. Gary and Gerry are working under the jeep to get the main bearings in. Gary picked up a jeep the other day to use for parts for another jeep he's putting together. He wanted it for the engine, which is the same buick 225 engine Gerry has in his jeep. He's giving Gerry the tire & gas can rack off the back because Gerry thinks it will work the his jeep. We've been wanting a rack to keep the gas cans and spare tire. Currently we run without a spare tire and a gas can resides inside the jeep.
We plan to stay here a day or two before heading out to the southeastern part of Alaska. On our agenda major stopping points are: Valdez, Skagway, and Juneau. After that we'll head down through Canada, Washington, Oregon, and California.
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August 11, 2007 - location: Otter Lake, Fort Richardson, Alaska
We are camped out at Otter Lake along with about 8 other groups. Everyone has a camper or trailer and are not too bad for neighbors. Once again, though, we find the people in Alaska wanting to stay up much later than us and I am glad when conversations finally peter off about 1am. Today we plan to stay around the lake and we have rented a canoe for the day that we are keeping along the shore at our site.
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August 10, 2007 - location: Elmendorf Air Force Base (N xx°,xx.xxx'; W xxx°,xx.xxx')
We have gotten all our errands done between yesterday and today. We got the 4th new tire for the jeep at Costco, picked up the remaining parts we need for the trailer tiedowns, stopped at an RV store for more tank treatment, and grocery shopped at the base. Now we are off to find a more remote camp spot.
When we were at the RV store, Gerry and I decided to look around at a couple of the toy-box trailers in the large fenced in yard. Honey didn't want to go inside, so I let her off the leash, assuming she was safe inside the fence. Well, she immediately caught scent of a rabbit and soon thereafter caught sight of it. The rabbit led her all over the yard and up against the far edge in the trees. Her occasional barks of frustration led us to her ever-changing location. It would have taken Honey a while to find the holes in the fence, but the bunny knew exactly where they were and led Honey right through the fence, across the street, and into another yard. She paid no attention to our calls. I ran out the main gate and around the yard to the other yard where a couple of guys were working. To Honey's surprise, there was a whole bunch of bunnies running around this yard. These yards must have been about a half acre each and there were about 30 rabbits in this second yard. They darted every which way out from under piles of wood, between rows of trailers, and around vast i-beams of steel. Honey was momentarily confused by the massive selection of prey, so I cornered her while she was in her daze. She ran a couple feet away, but when I barked "no", she crouched down and reluctantly let me catch her. She was panting heavily and eagerly scanning the yard for rabbits, barking each time she saw one. I took my prize firmly under my arm and headed back toward the RV lot when Gerry drove up in the truck and ushered us away from bunny-haven.
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August 9, 2007 - location: Skilak Lake (N 60°,28.248'; W 150°,28.084')
Well, we left our little piece of paradise in a mist of rain. Some clouds came in overnight and showered a bit. It looks like it may clear today, but we could head to Anchorage to get errands done. We need to get the new tire on the truck, change the oil in the truck, and pick up some parts. Not as much fun as camping, but necessary.
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August 8, 2007 - location: Skilak Lake (N 60°,28.248'; W 150°,28.084')
Today is a gorgeous day on the Kenai Peninsula. We are lounging on the shore of Skilak Lake with the sun warming our bones while the breeze cools our skin. The fish are jumping as the water licks the shore. I sure wish some fish would jump right onto the shore for me to eat. A fire rages across the lake in the Kenai Wilderness and clouds drift over the distant mountains. An occasional boat crosses the lake or plane passes in the distance, and even their sounds do not disturb the serenity of this beautiful lake.
We moved campsites this afternoon after our walk. Our campsite was great last night, but when the people on the end left, we jumped at the chance for a more remote spot. The three sites next to us are empty and there are only two campers further down. Very lovely and peaceful and free. We burned a lot of our wood last night, but I found more at the abandoned sites. This new site had a hot firepit, so Gerry started a fire, even though it is only mid-afternoon. The crackling of the fire behind us as we face the lake and sun is comforting and I don't worry about a creature sneaking up on us. The only things that could make this spot better would be for us to have a boat and fishing license. It would be fun to explore around the lake and maybe get some excersize with a canoe or kayak.
The people before us must have spit gum out on the ground because Gerry just stepped in it with his bare foot and it's gooey all over. He went to the camper to get butter to take it off. Honey is laying in the shade behind my chair with an ear out for any critters that might need chasing.
I wonder what it is like for the rodents in the fire. Do the squirrels run away or hide in the holes in the ground? The young critters most likely perish, as they cannot flee on their own. The birds could just fly away, but would they leave their nest and young in time to escape unharmed? Large mammals like bears, deer, moose, wolves, and wolverines should have better chances of escaping, given their mobility. Even if they get trapped by the flames, they may be able to swim away in the lake. It would be interesting to chat with a smoke jumper who fights the wilderness fires on the ground, or perhaps a helicopter drop pilot who may see the behavior of animals and birds from the air. Some ash floated ashore from the lake, but I doubt it is enough to do any harm to the fish. It would take a real thick layers, like volcanic ash, to disturb the fish.
I am getting hot in the sun and will try a quick dip in the frigid lake. We washed up in the water yesterday and it is quite cold. The sign at the boat ramp warns of cold water. Along the shore it doesn't seem that cold, but cold enough to keep swimmers at bay. If I had a float, I would try drifting around on the water for a while.
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August 7, 2007 - location: Homer Spit (N 59°,36.328'; W 151°,25.984')
Last night we camped on the Homer Spit. This is a large gravel bar extending out into the bay. The ferry terminal and docks are out there because of the deep water. Camping was pretty noisy because of the traffic on the road and neighboring campers / day-use folks. The day-use people were the noisiest and enjoyed campfires and unruly kids until well past my bedtime. At midnight there were still nusances, but I managed to fall asleep. Poor Gerry, he couldn't sleep at all. He has bags under his eyes this morning, but he seems chipper now that we are away from the spit. Needless to say, we'll be camping elsewhere tonight. Gerry is looking at the map right now to see if anything strikes him. Maybe we'll end up back by the lake from the previous night. Honey is happy to leave, too, because there was an eagle perched nearby that kept drooling all over her. "Here, little doggie, come get some salmon scraps". I kept Honey close-by and the eagle didn't get her.
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August 6, 2007 - location: Tustumena Lake (N 60°,15.211'; W 151°,10.397')
We had an enjoyable drive down the coast and pulled into Clam Gulch State Recreation Area, anticipating camping. The area was not appealling to us and looked really run down and trashy. We drove out onto the beach and noticed there were some trailers tucked along the edge of the shore. We thought about camping there, but the sand was really soft, we didn't know how high the tide would get, and everyone there looked like long-term campers with dumpy units. I was concerned about getting stuck or wet or bothered, so we went back to the previous campground turnoff. That was about 5 miles back on the road to Johnson Lake State Recreation Site. This place didn't look very good, but was workable. My gazateer map showed more camping further up the road, so we went up to Tustumena Lake and found some nice primitive sites by the boat launch. We took the end one and only had two other campers in the area that night. The lake was actually a bit up the river, but we had beautiful views of the river and a great campfire. Gerry had picked up some ribs at Safeway in Kenai and he cooked them on the fire. Very delicious! I'll have to send Gerry shopping more often.
We left camp around 11am and drove down to Homer. We plan to camp out here for 2-3 nights before heading back to Anchorage and Wasilla. The skies are clear and there is a steady breeze off the water.
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August 5, 2007 - location: Captain Cook State Park (N 60°,48.346'; W 151°,00.821')
After visiting the Sealife Center in Seward, we drove out to Exit Glacier, and onto Kenai. The Sealife Center was enjoyable and informative. There was a really great display with puffins and other seabirds that you could go into. The gulls were quite unnerving when they dove close, but most of the birds were busy eating, swimming, and diving under the water. On the lower levels you can see the birds diving and swimming. Quite impressive. There were sea lions and seals to watch as well. Exit Glacier was an easy walk up to the face. The ice was pretty dirty, but still neat to see. Gerry says enought glaciers for a while. I posted photos of the puffins and glacier.
We camped at Captain Cook State Recreation Area last night. The campground has 53 spaces that are adequately spaced and some accomadating larger rigs. We had a nice fire and enjoyed homemade burritos for dinner. The drizzle continued and we decided to head in to read in the dry quiet of the camper. This morning we had a nice walk around an interpretive trail and down on the beach. The rocks on the beach were all different types, thanks to the glaciers that carried them from afar. We learned that Captain Cook sailled into this inlet in 1778 and the river here was also the first discovery of oil in Alaska in the 1950s. Today we are driving down to clam gulch to camp along the water.
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August 4, 2007 - location: Seward, Alaska (N 60°,07.883'; W 149°,26.040')
Today we are leaving Seward and heading toward Homer. We are going to the marine museum here in town and drive to Exit Glacier before we leave town. We woke up to a dead battery in the truck this morning, so Gerry is working on getting it started while I goof off in the recreation room, playing on the computer. I suppose I should see how he's doing.
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August 3, 2007 - location: Seward, Alaska (N 60°,07.883'; W 149°,26.040')
We had a great trip on a large catamaran today to the national park. We saw orca whales, puffin birds, sea lions, and a glacier calving. The day was quite enjoyable and we are very glad we went. The day was overcast and we didn't get to see the mountains, but that was "the day we were dealt with", according to the captain of the boat. Check out the photos.
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August 2, 2007 - location: Chugash Nat'l Forest near Hope, Alaska (N 60°,50.4000'; W 149°,31.977')
Welcome to Seward
, Alaska! We arrived around 2pm to this Alaskan port snuggled in the mountains at the end of Resurection Bay. The morning started out with a pleasant awakening to crisp mountain air at our site perched above Palmer Creek in the Chugash National Forest. After a breakfast of cereal and tea, we went for a several mile hike up the Palmer Creek Road. To our surprise and dismay, we saw no wildlife. We did see a great campsite further up the road that we will try next time. The drive to Seward was short and scenic. We got lucky with timing for the road construction. The signs warned of up to 30 minutes delay and as we approached the pilot car section, traffic was just coming out the other way. Our delay was only 6 minutes.
We drove around Seward and decided to stay at the Seward Air Force Camp. There is a military resort with camping next door, but it is $24 for Gerry's rank to have a paved spot stacked in with everyone else. We opted for a "tent" site here because we don't need electricity and prefer the solitude of the treed tent sites over the paved / stacked RV sites. There is also a price difference of $11 vs $17. The town has camping along the water, again in a parking-lot style and costs $12. Between the wind and mist, we decided to stay in the woods over the water. I already took a nice long, hot shower and am now inside the recreation building enjoying free wi-fi and the heat. Honey can't come in here, so I left her at the campsite with Gerry and she was content to dig for mice around the trees. I did take Honey to the start of the Iditarod Trail and she was all excited about getting racing (racing away from the metal sled on display as fast as she could).
We bought tickets for the Alaska Sealife Museum here in Seward and booked a boat tour of Kenai Fjord National Park for tomorrow. The boat tour takes us to glaciers and to sealife. I'm excited and hope the weather isn't too rainy. The tour is 6 hours and includes a lunch of smoked salmon. The Seward Military Resort sold discount tickets for both the museum and boat tour.
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August 1, 2007 - location: Portage Valley (N °60,'; W 148°,54.229')
This morning we awoke to a peaceful, mist morning. The waterfall is audible through the camper walls and we feel refreshed by the good night's sleep. Off we go to the tunnel to Whittier. There is a 2.5 mile tunnel that is shared by train and cars. Every half hour cars drive from one direction or the other and the train takes turns as needed.
We came out in Whittier to a low-cloud, misty morning on the Prince William Sound. There is a cruise ship in the port here and many fishing boars either in the water or on trailers on the land. There was a hiking trail marked on the map, but the road into it was closed for construction, so we elected not to go. Instead, we went to a little walk along the river by the campground. We are going to eat lunch and then head back out on the noon tunnel openning.
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